OF CORSET MATTERS: Acne Studio’s Punk Rock Serenade to the Corset

 

One of my favorite collections with a Deconstruction theme from the Spring ’22 Runway season was Acne Studio.  At first glance, it might appear as if garments were hastily gathered off the ground, after a midnight roll in the hay-loft, for a rushed Walk of Shame to the Manor House at dawn.

Or that pieces were sloppily re-assembled by the cast of ‘Drunk History,’ in their after-party scramble to put a trashed Victorian estate back together.

But take a closer look. Abstract puzzle pieces of corset and riding attire were cleverly rendered with skill and precision to enhance the figure, adding sensuality to the chaos and fuel for a scandalous backstory…

A garter found slung over a railing in the hayloft…A stirrup discovered under a cushion in the boudoir…a crumpled handwritten request for a rendezvous that was frantically delivered by a galloping horseman in the middle of the night.

Avant-garde, yet wearable, this collection was downright sexy, with hints of humor to keep it interesting. Chunky platform shoes that gave a nod to horse hooves, the laced-up corseted socks, and punk/bondage jewelry, were just the right amount of freakishness thrown in to make it cool. This epic operatic mash-up of Equestrian, Dominatrix, and weekend of debauchery on a Victorian England estate, deserves an applause.  

Runway Photos from Vogue.com

GOT A CRUSH…err, CRASH

 

Sculptor John Chamberlain’s “Hawkfliesagain,” 2010

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comme des Garçons

Rei Kawakubo’s Spring 13 collection for Comme des Garçons was a graceful car wreck. The kind replayed in slow-mo to a screeching violin concerto on film.

 

John Chamberlain’s “Gangster of Love,” 1985

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reminiscent of the late John Chamberlain’s crushed-car sculptures, misplaced arms, legs, and lapels collided together with what seemed like a trunk load of ruched, folded, and crushed fabric to arrive at garments which were the farthest thing from a fatal accident. Quite the contrary, the body’s parts were strategically and purposefully reconfigured, with an intellectual backbone holding it up.

 

John Chamberlain Crushed-car Sculptures

 

 

 

 

John Chamberlain’s “Hanging Herm,” 1974

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Headpieces consisting of crushed-metal pile-ups were made in collaboration with artist Graham Hudson and worthy of a halting skid-stop from break-neck speed. Consider me but-a-chalk-outline on the pavement. The overall presentation was to-die-for.

 

John Chamberlain’s “Awesomemeatloaf,” 2011

 

 

 

Photos of Comme des Garçons Spring 13 Runway Collection @ Style.com. For more photos and info on John Chamberlain, click here. For more info about Graham Hudson, click here.

Freakin’ Fantasmic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

CHRISTOPHER KANE

Always innovative and experimental, creating tech fabrics with an exquisitely delicate hand, Christopher Kane is not a stranger to irony. These are the kind of unique pieces I could keep forever and that would still be F’in ‘forward’ for years to come.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sickly-sweet pastel pink and yellow concoctions with cartoonish nut-bolt-screw fasteners, complete garments made of candy-like ‘Shrinky Dink’ bows that coordinated back to tooled biker jackets, and ‘applique’ of grandma’s-lace-doily scraps and black duct tape all had a Frankenstein-esque quality.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christopher Kane, forever the mad scientist, has turned out yet-another monster concept. He remains one of my favorite London designers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photos from Christopher Kane Spring 13 Runway collection on Style.com.

ART got ii’s on YOU

Moschino Cheap & Chic

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Apparently, one can never have too many eyes on their fashion, eh?

 

Jeremy Scott

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

…OR hands.

 

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

OR bird heads?… (If your name is Bjork, Ozzy, or Nicki, and have front row seats.)

 

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, these ii’s were certainly popping with all the Modern Art references hanging around the Fall ’12 collections. And, a girl DOES crave a healthy dose of irony and hyperbole to get her through the season!

 

Manish Arora

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Manish Arora’s smokin’ lips whispered to Warhol, while a gang of hoodied street artists made a lot of visual noise as they tagged the mural backdrop.

 

Manish Arora

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With guns out, having hit the pavement running, some fresh tags were seen sneaking around at Be & D…Perhaps looking for Banksy?

 

Be & D

 

Be & D

 

 

Julien David gave a nod to POP Art with ‘killer fashion’ that objectified a kitchen knife.

 

Julien David

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Anna Molinari put the ‘WOW’ and ‘JOLIE’ in livin’ LARGE, loud, and pretty at Blumarine.

 

Blumarine

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Graffiti got Gaultier’d…or was it vice versa? Regardless, his looks rocked more fur and spray paint than a PETA protest, and still managed to scream luxury.

 

Jean Paul Gaultier

 

Jean Paul Gaultier

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Art was ‘off the wall’ and flat-out on the move at Comme des Garçons. However, given the size, structure and restrictive nature of the garments, a surreptitious ‘exit through the gift shop’ would seem highly unlikely and downright hazardous for the wearer.

 

Comme des Garçons

 

Nicholas Kirkwood spun tall tails about the girl who walked in his shoes.

 

Nicholas Kirkwood

 

A typewriter fashioned into a novel notion at Mary Katrantzou wrote a note to ‘Surrealism.’

 

Mary Katrantzou

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DVF dialed it up.

 

Diane Von Furstenburg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Imagery from Peter Pilotto’s garments channeled japanese light trucks, putting high beams on the chassy driving it.

 

Peter Pilotto

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Whether or not it’s on YOU, art will always be on the street. To get your eyes on it and head around it now, check out the following…

 

Deer Dana 'Cindy Crawford' t-shirt

 

Jeremy Scott for Linda Farrow eyewear

 

Keith Haring Exhibit at Brooklyn Museum

 

"Exit Through the Gift Shop" interview with Banksy

 

 

*Pre-order Be&D sneakers for a limited time @www.modaoperandi.com.
*Deer Dana t-shirts available at Opening Ceremony.
*Jeremy Scott/Linda Farrow “X-ray Vision” eyewear @Zappos.com.
*”Keith Haring: 1978-82″ at the Brooklyn Museum through July 8.
*For more photos and info on Banksy’s documentary “Exit Through The Gift Shop,” go to www.banksyfilm.com.
*Fall 2012 Runway photos from Style.com.

 

Complexities of a City Belle

 

 

As much as I do love the purity and intensity of what is clearly either black or white, it seems the subtle nuances (a fleeting emotion, mood, vulnerability) of a story can only be truly expressed through its shades of grey.

So it goes that the complexities of a city girl are best told in the grey garden of a concrete belle. For her story, check out the most recent issue of Odalisque Magazine.

Photography by Ellinor Stigle. Styling by Kelly Abbate. Make-up and Hair by Virginia Linzee. Model is Marine/ONE Management.

TURNING TRICKS WITH TROMPE L’OEIL

Comme des Garçons

 

Though I’m always wary of too much tricked-out fashion (the over-designed kind that screams ‘VICTIM!’), let it be said that these ii’s DO love a good trick every once in a while. And it appears that there were plenty of designers in the mood to turn them on the FALL 12 runways.

 

3.1 Phillip Lim

Marc Jacobs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For Fall 2012, examples of trompe l’oeil ranged from the outrageous to the seriously sophisticated. Many designers used panels to create a visual affect that lent a slimming quality to the garment and, hence, to the woman’s figure. Often the illusion bordered on caricature. Regardless, all varieties were derivative of one word, ‘clever!’—give or take a few exclamation points.

 

Balmain

Erdem

Kevork Kiledjian

Balenciaga

Rodarte

The Row

Etro

Elie Saab

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Always on the lookout for an ironic twist, or something to satiate my voracious sense of humor, I certainly got an eye-full this season. So much so that my laugh lines were camped out overnight awaiting a glimpse of the next showing.

So, stay tuned! And expect to see more fashion trompe-l’oeil-ing through the streets soon.

All photos are from Fall 2012 designer collections @ Style.com.

Putting a Cap on PRE-FALL

Marni

Marni

Marni

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pre-collections have turned out to be quite a lucrative business for designers. Many times, these collections hint at what to expect in terms of overall trends in fabric, technique, and silhouette for the upcoming runway season.

The looks here are, by far, my most favorite from the Pre-fall 2012 collections. And, in most cases, the entire collections from these designers were my top picks of the season.

Marni and Pringle were at the head of my list. Who’d have thought that an eccentric woods-woman, a quirky mod prep-ster, and an athlete could get along so well and hang together in the same company? Apparently Consuelo Castiglioni of Marni did. Genius! And a big WOW to the overall styling at Pringle!

 

Pringle of Scotland

 

Pringle of Scotland

 

Pringle of Scotland

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m a sucker for ‘Messed-up Prep’ and ‘Mod-itude.’ For Pre-fall, the J.W. Anderson collection combined both, managing to exude a neat, adorably pinch-able personality.

The silhouettes were so clean and simple, yet screamed with a punchy attitude, compelling one to wanna walk (or skip) in that girl’s shoes for way-more than just one day. BTW, that platform penny loafer is not only right up my alley…it be bangin’ down my door!

 

J.W. Anderson

 

J.W. Anderson

 

J.W. Anderson

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am typically most attracted to multi-layered looks that are rich in depth and have a complexity of character. This is most often achieved via the careful and thoughtful combination of color, pattern, and texture, with a balanced silhouette rounding out the end result. A clearly identifiable attitude and/or ironic twist—sometimes arrived at simply through the styling—is what these ii’s are on the lookout for.

Hitting the mark on all of these factors combined, AND KNOWING WHEN TO EDIT, can be quite a tall order for a designer to fill.

 

Proenza Schouler

 

Proenza Schouler

 

Pedro Lourenço

 

Pedro Lourenço

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Texture was abundant across the Pre-fall ’12 collections, from the ultra-shaggy furs, to the nubby wools, to the lace and delicate crochets. Often a sampling of the variety could be found in one garment.

 

Fendi

 

Fendi

 

Rochas

 

Thakoon

 

Thakoon

 

Thakoon

 

Celine

 

Louis Vuitton

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leather has never looked more appealing to me. This time around, it didn’t have the typical over-the-top slick factor that can translate as trashy. Instead, it was very neat, clean, and spare, with an understated sophistication.

 

Celine

 

YSL

 

YSL

 

Fendi

 

Lanvin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’ve long had a soft spot for clothes with a hard edge and a punk influence. Acne’s punk, this season, was a tough chick who favored clean lines and a minimalist mentality.

 

Acne

 

Acne

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Strong, sophisticated, and chic….”Power Dressing.” Although at times it was quite covered-up, there was always a lingering air of sexiness in its wake.

 

Emilio Pucci

 

Francesco Scognamiglio

 

Francesco Scognamiglio

 

Salvatore Ferragamo

 

Salvatore Ferragamo

 

Viktor & Rolf

 

Nina Ricci

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A delicate and very feminine romanticism also came through in the collections. Ruffles, lace, tulle and sheer fabrics were prominent.

 

Celine

 

Viktor & Rolf

 

Lanvin

 

Francesco Scognamiglio

 

Emilio Pucci

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the eve of the Fall 2012 runway season, I take it you are all on the edge of your seats in anticipation of what’s to come. Or, rather, contemplating your outfits for the week, shining your kick-ass-est of shoes, and slithering and scrounging around making those last minute attempts for New York show tickets. Hopefully this RECAP of the pre-collections has got you warmed up, in the mood, and ready.

Hell, I’ve been exercising my jaw-drop all day in expectation of the workout it will be getting over the next several weeks. These ii’s are clearly committed to the future of fashion.

 

 

All photos are from Pre-fall 2012 collections viewable at Style.com.

NEW LAUNCH: Online Mag ‘ODALISQUE’

 

Here is a taste of the new online weekly called The Odalisque Magazine, which launched a few days ago. Odalisque seeks to ‘challenge, question, and pay tribute to the objectified human body,’ as stated on its masthead.

 

 

I recently had the opportunity to work on this project, THE LOVERS, for their launch issue. To see more, visit http://odalisquemagazine.com.

With an editorial staff headquartered in Stockholm, the periodical has set out to provide a platform for fashion photography and visual arts aimed at engaging the viewer with ‘artistic and eccentric imagery.’ It seems that pushing boundaries is one of its main priorities, which is why I was initially attracted. It’s definitely worth checking out.

 

 

Photography by Ellinor Stigle. Styling by Kelly Abbate.
Make-up by Virginia Linzee. Model Amanda Casagrande / One Management.

SLEEVES THAT SPEAK IN VOLUMES

Alexander McQueen

 

If garments could talk, they certainly spoke in high volume on the Pre-fall ’12 runways…and THE SLEEVE, in its most pumped-up form, stood out on a limb to scream the loudest. At varying decibels, the noise it created was both off-the-charts stunningly strident and soothingly sculptural at the same time.

 

Viktor & Rolf

 

Yves Saint Laurent

 

Moschino

 

Valentino

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

NOTE: Dabbling in volume requires an equal dose of restraint where the rest of the silhouette is concerned.

For Pre-fall 2012, the voluminous sleeve walked arm-in-arm with a fitted bodice and/or a lean bottom. Designers most often sought to tame it with a corset belt, a nipped-in waist, a tight pencil skirt, or a cigarette pant.

 

Narciso Rodriguez

 

Thakoon

 

Jean Paul Gaultier

 

Burberry Prorsum

 

Lanvin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Additionally, the volume of the sleeve was either exacerbated or tempered by the fabric used in its construct. The heavier fabrications offered a more bulky or sculptural effect, while the lighter, more sheer ones contributed an airy ethereal quality to the aesthetic.

 

Azzaro

 

Alexander McQueen

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, the key to successfully achieving the desired symphony of this look boils down to the careful combination of notes in the overall silhouette. It could mean the difference between volume that has a strong voice versus that which is just-plain screamingly obnoxious and off-key. Bottom line…when done right, it sings.

 

Issey Miyake

 

 

 

All looks shown here are from Pre-fall 2012 collections.
Photographs are from Style.com.

THE TURTLE-NECK’S CHOKE-HOLD ON PRE-FALL

Pedro Lourenço

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

It seems the turtleneck has gained a leading position amidst Pre-fall 2012 trends. But, while it may have designer collections in a choke hold, it by no means is taking hostages.

On the contrary, it offers a more relaxed, accessible, and very-wearable approach to outfitting, lending a casual hand to its pairings.

 

Erdem

 

Pringle of Scotland

 

Louis Vuitton

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m most choked up over what can be achieved with a layering piece such as this. My tear ducts can barely contain themselves with joy!

I love the turtleneck layered under a white button-down shirt, as seen at Pringle of Scotland. The collection’s multi-layered looks were so rich and full of depth. NOTE TO SELF: easy way to make tired wardrobe items look new and fresh.

 

Narciso Rodriguez

 

Derek Lam

 

Carven

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

There is a power the turtleneck has as catalyst to an outfit’s metamorphosis.

Varieties with a finer gauge offered a sophisticated nod to the 60’s at Derek Lam and Erdem, a clean and sporty edge at Pedro Lourenço and Celine, and a throwback to the 80’s at Balenciaga.

 

Balenciaga

 

Gucci

 

Celine

 

Viktor & Rolf

 

Proenza Schouler

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

With the clunkier fabrications and looser silhouettes, there was an effortless nonchalance to its task, evident at Gucci and The Row. In still-other instances, the turtleneck took on a more sculptural/architectural role, as seen at Proenza Schouler and Viktor & Rolf. So, the range of possibilities are quite vast.

 

Maison Martin Margiela

 

The Row

 

Missoni

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sure, these collections aren’t due in stores for another 6 months. But that doesn’t mean you can’t utilize a turtleneck that’s on the rack now to give your current look a face lift. What a crisp, fresh turn-on for a wardrobe bogged down by the between-season January gloom!

 

 

Photos of Pre-fall 2012 Collections from Style.com.