Archives for posts with tag: iionfashion

 

Sculptor John Chamberlain’s “Hawkfliesagain,” 2010

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Comme des Garçons

Rei Kawakubo’s Spring 13 collection for Comme des Garçons was a graceful car wreck. The kind replayed in slow-mo to a screeching violin concerto on film.

 

John Chamberlain’s “Gangster of Love,” 1985

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Reminiscent of the late John Chamberlain’s crushed-car sculptures, misplaced arms, legs, and lapels collided together with what seemed like a trunk load of ruched, folded, and crushed fabric to arrive at garments which were the farthest thing from a fatal accident. Quite the contrary, the body’s parts were strategically and purposefully reconfigured, with an intellectual backbone holding it up.

 

John Chamberlain Crushed-car Sculptures

 

 

 

 

John Chamberlain’s “Hanging Herm,” 1974

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Headpieces consisting of crushed-metal pile-ups were made in collaboration with artist Graham Hudson and worthy of a halting skid-stop from break-neck speed. Consider me but-a-chalk-outline on the pavement. The overall presentation was to-die-for.

 

John Chamberlain’s “Awesomemeatloaf,” 2011

 

 

 

Photos of Comme des Garçons Spring 13 Runway Collection @ Style.com. For more photos and info on John Chamberlain, click here. For more info about Graham Hudson, click here.

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CHRISTOPHER KANE

Always innovative and experimental, creating tech fabrics with an exquisitely delicate hand, Christopher Kane is not a stranger to irony. These are the kind of unique pieces I could keep forever and that would still be F’in ‘forward’ for years to come.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sickly-sweet pastel pink and yellow concoctions with cartoonish nut-bolt-screw fasteners, complete garments made of candy-like ‘Shrinky Dink’ bows that coordinated back to tooled biker jackets, and ‘applique’ of grandma’s-lace-doily scraps and black duct tape all had a Frankenstein-esque quality.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Christopher Kane, forever the mad scientist, has turned out yet-another monster concept. He remains one of my favorite London designers.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photos from Christopher Kane Spring 13 Runway collection on Style.com.

Yinka Shonibare’s ‘Water,’ 2010

 

Burberry Prorsum, Spring 2012 Runway

 

Shoes @ Opening Ceremony

 

J.W. Anderson top @ Net-a-Porter.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Like an elephant at the watering hole, …a mosquito on a host at a nighttime barbeque, …a wedding crasher at the open bar—I’ve been drinking up all I can of this season’s tribal theme. It’s going to be my colorful, easy, chic go-to look for summer.

In the meantime, with an intent to soak up all things tribal, I came across the works of Yinka Shonibare, who exhibited at the Frieze Art Fair in New York last weekend. The artist’s message and social commentary is clearly in direct opposition to the frivolity and superficiality of fashion trends. However, the ii’s couldn’t help being mesmerized by the irony and energy his pieces convey, while finding inspiration in their multiple layers of visual stimulation.

 

Yinka Shonibare’s ‘Food Faerie,’ 2009

 

 

Proenza Schouler bag @ Barneys New York

 

Boxing Kitten dress @ Urban Outfitters

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’ve always been attracted to the colorful graphic African tribal fabrics, and the ties and folds of the traditional garments worn by women on the streets of New York. The stiffer, waxed texture of the fabric, and mix of pattern/print, naturally lends itself to an effect that is both graphically vibrant and rich in depth.

Ironically enough, I learned that these were originally Indonesian designs brought to Africa by the Dutch via colonialism. While Yinka Shonibare channels that particular historical confusion to enhance his social statement, one can’t deny the added dimension it brings to a fashion story.

Boxing Kitten is an up-and-coming brand that utilizes these fabrics in a fresh way to create young, fun, fashion-forward silhouettes. Regardless of the beat a girl walks to, the drum circle she plays with, or the size of her straw pocketbook, the styles have a wide range of appeal.

 

 

Holst & Lee necklace

 

Issey Miyake belt @ Farfetch.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The tribal prints coordinate nicely back to snakeskin, raffia, wood, animal print, and woven leather elements. The addition of a slick and polished item or two will keep the look less-literal, more modern, and city-safari friendly.

 

Miniskirt @ Boxingkitten.com

 

Marni clutch @ Barneys New York

 

Woven bangle @ Urban Outfitters

 

Yinka Shonibare’s ‘Boy on a Globe,’ 2010

 

Charlotte Olympia wedge @ Bergdorf Goodman

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you’re planning to go TRIBAL and like to be prepared, the items shown here are just a few suggested ‘supplies’ for your trip.

To find a drum circle near you and get your beat on, go to http://drumcircles.net.

Photos of Yinka Shonibare’s work @ http://www.yinkashonibarembe.com and http://www.stephenfriedman.com.

 

 

Comme des Garçons

 

Though I’m always wary of too much tricked-out fashion (the over-designed kind that screams ‘VICTIM!’), let it be said that these ii’s DO love a good trick every once in a while. And it appears that there were plenty of designers in the mood to turn them on the FALL 12 runways.

 

3.1 Phillip Lim

Marc Jacobs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

For Fall 2012, examples of trompe l’oeil ranged from the outrageous to the seriously sophisticated. Many designers used panels to create a visual affect that lent a slimming quality to the garment and, hence, to the woman’s figure. Often the illusion bordered on caricature. Regardless, all varieties were derivative of one word, ‘clever!’—give or take a few exclamation points.

 

Balmain

Erdem

Kevork Kiledjian

Balenciaga

Rodarte

The Row

Etro

Elie Saab

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Always on the lookout for an ironic twist, or something to satiate my voracious sense of humor, I certainly got an eye-full this season. So much so that my laugh lines were camped out overnight awaiting a glimpse of the next showing.

So, stay tuned! And expect to see more fashion trompe-l’oeil-ing through the streets soon.

All photos are from Fall 2012 designer collections @ Style.com.

Proenza Schouler

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The ii’s have seen a lot in terms of fashion. So, it’s fair to say that it really takes something quite impressive to attract a stare from over here. These are the things seen at New York Fashion Week that left me temporarily blinded…

AN ARCHETECTURAL KIMONO, AN OBI-INSPIRED IT-SKIRT, AND THE GENERAL ASIAN-WARRIOR-OF-THE-FUTURE VIBE AT PROENZA SCHOULER…

 

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

P.S., THEIR MOTOCROSS-BIKER BOOTS…

 

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A BALLSY BASEBALL JACKET BY PRABAL GURUNG THAT ‘GOT GAME’ IN THE BIG LEAGUES…

 

Prabal Gurung

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE CARGO JODHPUR PANT TUCKED INTO THIGH-HIGH BOOTS, ZEBRA SWEATERS, AND AN OVERALL COLONIALIST SAFARI THEME AT ALTUZARRA…

 

Altuzarra

Altuzarra

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THE STUNNING IRONIES– A DELICATE TROMPE L’OEIL TREATMENT COMBINED WITH A CRISP WHITE WOVEN –AT ALEXANDER WANG…

 

Alexander Wang

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A LARGER-THAN-LIFE WRAP PARTY AND THE MULTI-BUCKLE PILGRIM SHOES AT MARC JACOBS…

 

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

UNIQUE CHIC DETAILS AT THAKOON–A LACQUER TREATMENT, A PAPER BAG CINCH WAIST, AND A SHAG THAT LEAVES YOU GLOWING…

 

Thakoon

Thakoon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A DELICATE VOLUMINOUS SLEEVE PAIRED WITH A FUR BIB AT THE ROW…

 

The Row

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

DOO.RI STEPPING OUT OF HER DRAPE ZONE…

 

Doo.Ri

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

BOOTS AT RODARTE…

 

Rodarte

Rodarte

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A LEATHER AND KNIT CROCHETED CHEVRON DRESS WITH A TOUCH OF TROMPE L’OEIL BY RAG & BONE…

 

Rag & Bone

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A QUIRKY MIX OF PATTERN, PRINT, AND TEXTURE AT SUNO…

 

Suno

Suno

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

THAT SCULPTURAL DROP-SHOULDER SLEEVE AT A DETACHER…

 

A Détacher

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

TECH FABRICATIONS MIXED WITH LACE AT ALEXANDRE HERCHCOVITCH…

 

Alexandre Herchcovitch

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A ‘SIMPLE’ POOF SLEEVE AT WES GORDON…

 

Wes Gordon

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now, please excuse me while I catch a quick wink and work on getting my sights back for London!

 

 

All photos are from Fall 2012 Runway collections @ Style.com.

Marni

Marni

Marni

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The pre-collections have turned out to be quite a lucrative business for designers. Many times, these collections hint at what to expect in terms of overall trends in fabric, technique, and silhouette for the upcoming runway season.

The looks here are, by far, my most favorite from the Pre-fall 2012 collections. And, in most cases, the entire collections from these designers were my top picks of the season.

Marni and Pringle were at the head of my list. Who’d have thought that an eccentric woods-woman, a quirky mod prep-ster, and an athlete could get along so well and hang together in the same company? Apparently Consuelo Castiglioni of Marni did. Genius! And a big WOW to the overall styling at Pringle!

 

Pringle of Scotland

 

Pringle of Scotland

 

Pringle of Scotland

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’m a sucker for ‘Messed-up Prep’ and ‘Mod-itude.’ For Pre-fall, the J.W. Anderson collection combined both, managing to exude a neat, adorably pinch-able personality.

The silhouettes were so clean and simple, yet screamed with a punchy attitude, compelling one to wanna walk (or skip) in that girl’s shoes for way-more than just one day. BTW, that platform penny loafer is not only right up my alley…it be bangin’ down my door!

 

J.W. Anderson

 

J.W. Anderson

 

J.W. Anderson

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I am typically most attracted to multi-layered looks that are rich in depth and have a complexity of character. This is most often achieved via the careful and thoughtful combination of color, pattern, and texture, with a balanced silhouette rounding out the end result. A clearly identifiable attitude and/or ironic twist—sometimes arrived at simply through the styling—is what these ii’s are on the lookout for.

Hitting the mark on all of these factors combined, AND KNOWING WHEN TO EDIT, can be quite a tall order for a designer to fill.

 

Proenza Schouler

 

Proenza Schouler

 

Pedro Lourenço

 

Pedro Lourenço

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Texture was abundant across the Pre-fall ’12 collections, from the ultra-shaggy furs, to the nubby wools, to the lace and delicate crochets. Often a sampling of the variety could be found in one garment.

 

Fendi

 

Fendi

 

Rochas

 

Thakoon

 

Thakoon

 

Thakoon

 

Celine

 

Louis Vuitton

 

 

 

 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Leather has never looked more appealing to me. This time around, it didn’t have the typical over-the-top slick factor that can translate as trashy. Instead, it was very neat, clean, and spare, with an understated sophistication.

 

Celine

 

YSL

 

YSL

 

Fendi

 

Lanvin

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I’ve long had a soft spot for clothes with a hard edge and a punk influence. Acne’s punk, this season, was a tough chick who favored clean lines and a minimalist mentality.

 

Acne

 

Acne

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Strong, sophisticated, and chic….”Power Dressing.” Although at times it was quite covered-up, there was always a lingering air of sexiness in its wake.

 

Emilio Pucci

 

Francesco Scognamiglio

 

Francesco Scognamiglio

 

Salvatore Ferragamo

 

Salvatore Ferragamo

 

Viktor & Rolf

 

Nina Ricci

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

A delicate and very feminine romanticism also came through in the collections. Ruffles, lace, tulle and sheer fabrics were prominent.

 

Celine

 

Viktor & Rolf

 

Lanvin

 

Francesco Scognamiglio

 

Emilio Pucci

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the eve of the Fall 2012 runway season, I take it you are all on the edge of your seats in anticipation of what’s to come. Or, rather, contemplating your outfits for the week, shining your kick-ass-est of shoes, and slithering and scrounging around making those last minute attempts for New York show tickets. Hopefully this RECAP of the pre-collections has got you warmed up, in the mood, and ready.

Hell, I’ve been exercising my jaw-drop all day in expectation of the workout it will be getting over the next several weeks. These ii’s are clearly committed to the future of fashion.

 

 

All photos are from Pre-fall 2012 collections viewable at Style.com.

 

Here is a taste of the new online weekly called The Odalisque Magazine, which launched a few days ago. Odalisque seeks to ‘challenge, question, and pay tribute to the objectified human body,’ as stated on its masthead.

 

 

I recently had the opportunity to work on this project, THE LOVERS, for their launch issue. To see more, visit http://odalisquemagazine.com.

With an editorial staff headquartered in Stockholm, the periodical has set out to provide a platform for fashion photography and visual arts aimed at engaging the viewer with ‘artistic and eccentric imagery.’ It seems that pushing boundaries is one of its main priorities, which is why I was initially attracted. It’s definitely worth checking out.

 

 

Photography by Ellinor Stigle. Styling by Kelly Abbate.
Make-up by Virginia Linzee. Model Amanda Casagrande / One Management.